Iran

Wrote home M, L,

What a performance today to cross the frontier, lost 2 hours off our time to start with. Up at 7 am then suddenly it was 10am. Through the Turkish boarder about 10 then another hour filling in forms for Iran. Through at last. Good roads on through Tabriz. Stopped for the night about half way to Tehran. Difficult in petrol stations numerals in Arabic and everyone trying to con us. 183 rials to the pound, changed £5 insured 3rd party, 300 rials 100 rials transit fee. Houses much the same as Morocco. Plenty of Camels about. It seems much more prosperous than Turkey. The land is volcanic with hot springs about. Diesel 1/2 a gallon cheapest yet. View of Mount Ararat at border.

(Chopped Pork Cabbage potato)


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Iran

Good run all the way into Tehran  350 mile approx. Found camp site Camping-Gol-E-Sarah easy enough.  100 rial per night for 3 people Tent and LD. Nothing of interest from Tabriz scenery very flat and boring bit of a dust storm blowing up on way into Tehran. Found out its impossible to get into India without a Carnet du Passage. Can probably get as far as Pakistan. In Camp sat round fire all night with a Londoner 4 Germans 2 Swiss had a good laugh. Morning look forward to hot shower, eat good meal in Camp Restaurant Chicken and chips 235 rials for 3, quite expensive, Hope I have some letters in post office tomorrow, feeling a bit lonely.

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Tehran

Drove into Tehran town centre today, never seen anything like it in my life, cars come and go at any and every angle regardless of what’s there. Walked from post office (where there was no mail) to Indian Embassy. He tells us “no Carnet, no go” Walked all the way back to Iran motoring club CLOSED. Blisters and sores on our feet and stiff legs not used to walking. Camp has asked us to sign the visitor’s book. Its great, drawings on every page, and photos of people who have passed this way. Tomorrow try and stop oil leaks on engine and generally service LD. Good night by fire with German and Swiss blokes.

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Tehran

Found out yesterday there’s been an earthquake in Turkey, it must have happened the same day we left Istanbul. Hope they arn’t too worried at home. Today covered in oil from head to foot put new filters in LD checked timing and generally cleaned up engine.

Exhaust needs welding tomorrow. Filled in visitor’s book made foot prints and glued photos in, looked effective. London bloke’s half shaft went on front of his Land Rover what a mess. Some more people on camp without Carnet du passage. Swimming pool, hot showers, café, splendid camp. But the last one from what we’ve heard.

( Chips beans Bacon)

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Tehran

Got exhaust welded excellent job 50r about 2/6 and a packet of Camel Cigarettes.

Drove around town with no Silencer( Muffler) sounded like a tank. Drove to Iranian motor club to try and get a Carnet for India. Cost is £5 but a deposit of £250 is required. We have met a couple who will sign a cheque for the amount, when the Carnet is returned the cheque is destroyed. It would have cost us £27 to get one in England. Spent the day trying to get things sorted out and we did hardly anything and it took all day. Had the best tea ever tonight big salad followed by apple Pie and cream and the best cup of tea.

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Tehran

Up early and into town again. Chasing up and down! First Automobile Club of Iran for Carnet cost 980 rials £5 and cheque signed for the 2 of us for £500, courtesy of Lee and Pat an Australian and an Irish girl we met. Lucky for us. Then up to the Pakistan Embassy were they gave us 7 forms each to fill out, all the same forms. And had to be accompanied with 4 photos each which cost 20 rials.This is only for a road permit!

We also found we have to go to Mashed to get the visas for Afghanistan. It seems as though you cant get anything done, 4 days trying and so far nothing. But were getting close. No mail from home yet Hope we get some soon.

( Rice meat Omelette)

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Tehran

Received 2 letters M & L

On the road 8.30 finally made some progress, got the Carnet then the road permit for Pakistan. Paid up at Camp Gol e Sahara. 500 rial. Packed and headed off to Isfahan arrived there at 10.30, good run, left at 3pm. 250 miles. 5 of us came along Lee and Pat great couple, LD ran well, parked up outside the airport .Received letter from home at last. Mam and Loraine they were worried sick about the earthquake. Good look round tomorrow then back to Tehran and on to Mashed to get our visas for Afghanistan.

( Steak pie cabbage and potatoes)

Lee and Pat in their Peugeot

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Ishfahan

The most fantastic sight we have seen It’s just how I imagined Tehran to be. The Mosque MASJID-E Shah, the dome and minarets completely covered in mosaic, mainly blue and yellow. It looks just how you would imagine Persia to be. The whole town dates back to the first civilisations in the world, I’m really glad we came down here although I don’t think Syl and Bev were really keen to come, I think the strain of living together is beginning to tell, but it hasn’t affected me yet, but Bev seems to have a bee in his bonnet about something, and a cob on. I don’t think we will see the trip out together. I don’t seem to get the same feeling of a place when I’m with others.

(Beans steak Pie Potatoes)

Mosque Ishfahan Iran, all tiny mosaic tiles.

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Tehran

Yesterday we had the spring repaired, taken off new top leaves and put on a few lower leaves, made and fitted by hand no power tools. All finished in 1 hour 700 rial just under £4. Last night at Isfahan airport we had the gas cylinder and lamp stolen from under LD. Met the Germans once again, left early to come back to Tehran. A woman lay dead at the roadside knocked down by a wagon. The road from Isfahan is 250 miles across semi desert with some fine views of the mountains all around. Very little water about and a few patches of salt, Its only a few miles from the Great Salt Desert, worth the trip down I think.

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Iran

Electrical short on battery melted battery lead.

Leaving Tehran we developed a wheel wobble, had to move the roof rack to the front of LD, it cured the wobble. Covered 200 miles to the Caspian sea through Sari, and barren Mountains, holes in side of mountains turned out to be coal mines, all along the length of the road just holes with small piles of coal mined out. Night time we stop at Behshahr near the Caspian Sea pulled into a tobacco research farm and were invited to stay in the chemist’s house. We all slept on the floor in his front room; though he was prepared to let us have the bedroom. Anything we wanted he would try and get for us. We ate a good meal together and had wine, Pat and Lee were very dubious about staying but it was very safe, a nice and very generous person.

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Iran

All the lush green country as gone now and were back in arid semi desert. The road has changed into a potholed dirt track for 200 miles. A to B is a new road  in the process of being built but its taken 10 years up to now. LD has developed a bad wheel wobble, have changed front wheels over and tightened bearings up. The road we’re travelling is parallel to the Russian frontier about 50 k’s from it. Stopped for the night on stretch not finished yet, ate good meal.  Dust flying everywhere to thick to see through when your behind a car. Changed Rubbers in Shock absorbers hope it helps.

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Iran

Finished with dirt road at last, 250 miles of it then a good road into Mashed. stopped just west of town. Changed water in radiator, very rusty looking tightened up manifold bolts. Lee and Pat travelling in a 1959 Peugeot and not a bit of trouble with it. Kids hanging around every time we stop at post offices going mad for English stamps. Travelled across dry barren land and semi desert, inside the cars everything’s caked with dust. The 5 of us travelling together is quite a good arrangement, they are good company too. Its early now we’ve all eaten and everyone’s gone to bed. Its quite peaceful in LD and my bed is really great I sleep as well as I did at home, trying not to think too much about home, but more about what I will do in the near future.

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Afghanistan

Through the Afghan frontier without any problems, Gave a lift to a couple travelling to Herat. Had a meal in a café approx 1/3 for rice and meat etc. Went to the couples room to smoke hash, he bought a large piece freely in a shop and also a water pipe to smoke it. Bev was really gone I think I experienced an awareness of my own surroundings all the colours seemed to be brilliant with lots of contrast and noise seemed to be coming from all around. The hotel was full of junkies 25 Afganis a night, and they just stayed in there smoking hash and doing drugs, on the walls marks from needle spurts. Afghani people seem really nice and a proud race.

Saw vulture dead on road. The difference between here and Iran is amazing its much more civilised and natural, really beautiful country.

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Kandahar Afghanistan

Drove 250 miles today from a few miles outside Herat to Kandahar. The road was through completely barren deserts with the brown tents of nomads scattered about. The heat making mirages on the horizon looked like huge lakes, then gradually the roads are tree lined and there’s green grass. A few whirl winds tried to get going in the desert but fizzled out. We stopped at a river and had a great swim and wash, first swim since we left home. We don’t seem to be on very good terms with Lee and Pat today don’t know why. Think it might be better if we went our own way. My mozzie bites are beginning to ease off now, hope I don’t get any more.

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Kabul Afghanistan

Banda Kagahar (Lake Kagahar Dam)

Left the hotel in Kandahar the grounds were really nice, Roses and plenty of green grass. 318 miles to Kabul through more barren desert land, few nomads and camels, diesel stations about 60 miles apart. Few miles from Kabul a great thunderstorm, tried to photograph the lightening. Green hills all the way into Kabul. Lost Lee and Pat somewhere on the way. Drove round looking for somewhere to camp and ended up at Lake or Dam somewhere in the hills LD beginning to wobble on front wheels again. Heard they hope to get the Apollo up again today. The black market rate for Indian rupees to the pound is 32r twice as much as the official rate. Tomorrow will have a look round Kabul.

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Kabul

Slept late this morning. Beautiful day sun blazing, the lake looks good with the snow on the Hindu Kush  behind. Went shopping in Kabul for fruit and bread, got my shoes mended in the bazaar, looks really oriental in there, vegies very cheap. Changed £25 into rupees and £10 into US Dollars got 730 rupees, official rate is 17 r for 1, and $23.50 doubles for £10 though we got 32?

The river in the town is used for everything crapping in others cleaning their teeth and washing in it, while some are washing their vegies in it! all along the banks piles of shit.

Couldn’t find LD for over an hour, Stayed in at night and smoked hash cant feel anything from it I don’t think!!

Dam just outside Kabul (Banda Kaghar)

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Kabul

Sunshine all day again, just lazing about, wrote home. We were invited down to a spawning ground for trout at the bottom of the Dam by the man who runs it, it was very interesting too, the wages for him in Afghanistan (and he’s a qualified vet) are $22 a month and the workers get about 600 afghan a month about £5, they are very nice people.  Have been teaching some kids English. Spent last night chatting to an English couple in there camper, telling us their experiences and they have had quite a few! They reckon we could make a lot of money in Asia. At the side of the Dam where we’re camping there are 8 wild dogs, one is ‘King’ scar faced half his ear missing,  they guard us (we have been feeding them) if anyone comes near, only Afghanis, they go mad barking and chase them away. Syl thought someone was trying to get into the tent one morning and it was the “King” dog who was lying next to her between the tent and flysheet.

The wild dogs who watched over us at Lake Kaghar, Kabul. They wouldn’t let the local people near us. The boss, sitting, had lots of battle scars

Bev buying oranges in Kabul Afghanistan

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Kabul

Total Road Tolls 230 Afghanis

A day in Kabul again bought a can for water after much arguing and bartering 120 Afghanis .

Wrote home again. Collected some water from the trout farm it was beautiful ice cold spring water. Felt sorry for the bloke running the place hes a really nice intelligent person but cant get a better job. And it’s a hopeless job hes got, he wants somebody to help him get to England, I wish I could but its impossible. Night time went over to chat to the English couple again but had been smoking hash so none of us were talking much sense. I don’t know what they thought of us but it was difficult to keep the conversation going and the slightest thing and we burst out laughing, its an education.

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Khyber Pass into Pakistan

Mileage on clock at 1 pm 99999

Set off for Pakistan, LD boiling over took out thermostat. Changed $3 into Afghanis and gave him 16 US dollars by mistake, bought piece of hash for $3 and find we only have 4 left out of $23. Bought leather bag for 150 af, full length  afghan fur coats are only 700 af . Passed about 5 frontier posts before heading into Peshawar, even a vegetable quarantine. The Khyber Pass wasn’t as spectacular as I thought it would be, cost 7af to pass through it.

Another half hour on the clock making a total of 5. Everyone here selling hash gave us a big piece as sample. Staying the night at Dak Bungalow cost 6 rupee a night, fuel 1 rupee =1/9 under 10pence a gallon..

Its getting very warm now will be difficult sleeping in LD with doors shut. India will be hotter still.

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Peshawar

Arranged to meet 2 different blokes to buy 2 kilo’s of hash, they gave us big samples, left town very early to miss them. Tried to stop spring moving on LD with metal ring around the bush. Went from Peshawar to Kohat Pass were the tribesmen make guns by hand, all kinds Sten guns, rifles, pistols also a pen gun, fires 1 shot, they take them into the street and fire them into the air to try them out. On from Kohat to Rawlpindi. They have customs between states here. We are not supposed to go off the route given, but were back on course now. Stopped for the night outside small town on way to Lahore. So hot now drank 18 cokes between us. Military area, had good wash under tap, Golf course along side, Bevs having a game this morning. Wheel nuts worked loose one sheared off. Took out thermostat.

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