First puncture of the trip, just before Indian frontier, cost 2 rupee. Total spent in  Pakistan was 120 rupees = £10. Lahore was a terrible looking place, dirty, the main form of transport is horse drawn rickshaws. The driving is also a bit chaotic. We had no trouble crossing the frontier as we expected, took a little hash through to, It was a vast change into India, the frontier guards were spick and span with their kaki uniforms and turbans with Black plumes and Red plumes. But I imagine it will deteriorate the further into India we go. The road is a single lane tarmac one, the oncoming traffic seem to take it for granted its us that will stop or pull over. Weve seen Parrots and Peacocks in the wild also Minor Birds, at the rest houses ( Dak Bungalows) we’ve stopped at luminous Fire Fly’s buzz about,  Mosquitoes are really bad too we’ve all been bitten to pieces. Met bloke at frontier CYCLING to England from Kathmandu.

I think today we’ve had the most fantastic day and the hospitality we have been shown is more than we could imagine. In the early morning we set off for Delhi in the burning heat, which was overwhelming. Then out of the blue we came across a great cold clean river and swam, we expected to see no water in India but we’ve had more washing and swimming than anywhere on route. On the road we met a Mr Kapur who we gave a lift to, and because of it we have been shown the greatest hospitality. After showing us the University of Karnal and the Temple of Krishna, He explained to us the various aspects of their religion. He took us to his house to wash and clean up then on the restaurant his family owns for a splendid meal with some of his friends Lawyers Surgeons and Politicians. We had a really good night and probably learned more about India and the people than we will learn from the rest of the trip. We discussed the differences between to two cultures Indian and English and the different traditions regarding husband and wife relationships, which is totally different from ours, But I think they have a lot more that we in our western civilisation lack. Two of his friends were ‘Jains’, a religion that doesn’t believe in killing anything accidentally or otherwise, so they walk with a small brush sweeping in front of themselves to make sure they don’t step on anything. Mr Kaphul’s home as had the whole family living here for the past 90 years in which the business side has been developed, Parents and Grandparents all together.  Home life is very good and simple. On the roof of his home we slept on raffia beds, the coolest place to be. The Temple we visited in Amritser and the statue of Lord Krishners Chariot and Horse who was said to be the driver of the Lords Chariot. He would not kill his own people because he believed in transmigration of the soul and the temple with its marble chariot and horse was dedicated to this.

Bev and Syl in a Trishaw Karnal India

We stayed yet another night in the home of the Kapur family, up at 5 am while the day is cool. And then the days visits begin. All day he keeps us supplied with food, beer, as much as we want and we visit all his friends around the narrow streets of Karnal drinking tea when we stop at each friends. Another visit to the potato storage for a swim which is now more than necessary has the temperature has topped 115 degrees and is almost unbearable. We have seen the way of life here more than anywhere so far, they live very simply the whole family under one roof.

Later in the day his wife has prepared food for us though she does not take any part in the meal she waits upon her husband like a servant, she doesn’t even speak in English to us though she can understand it. The marriages are arranged by the parents from birth and they think this is the best way.

Woke early in the house of Mr Kapur and his family after visiting more of his friends to have tea and have our photo taken, he tried hard to persuade us not to leave. But we said our thank you’s and goodbyes, it was all getting a bit much, felt like we were being paraded around, what with the heat and upset stomachs (Delhi belly) it was difficult.  We set off for Delhi, we now use the Indian greeting for the Indian women hands joined and a slight bow,  hope I don’t forget! After a short drive in temperatures of 110 we arrive in Delhi. The capital of India. A very orderly and clean place well laid out. And much to my pleasure we called on Bill and Brenda Norris(mums friends) and Bill immediately produced the shell I gave him nearly 7 years ago. And a letter from my mother which they received from her between us leaving Turkey and arriving here. They both look very well. India (up to now) has been fabulous, nothing like we expected. Sold 2 bottles of whiskey for 200 rupee, £5 each( with our tourist Liquor Vouchers) The Punjab is a dry state.  Now  camped up at Budist Monastery, ASHOKA MISSION VIHARA by QUTUB MINAR DELHI. A well 100 foot deep at the mission,  the pump is turned on morning and night to water the animals.

Frustration as been the order of the day today! We set off to get everything done by 11am but nobody is interested and everything is so disorganised no such thing as speed!

Yesterdays temp was the hottest in Delhi for 10 years. Met Bill and Brenda again, received letters from Mam and Sandra but none from Larraine, I was very disappointed but I couldn’t blame her if she never wrote again. Bought plenty of vegies on the market  also a mosquito net. The letters were posted on the 14th and arrived on the 18th so I cant understand why  2 were missing. Dived down the well today its about 600 years old, 70ft to the water line  then about 40ft deep but my sinus’s wouldn’t stand up to it, will have another go tomorrow. Wash time at the well too all the hippies strip off, women an all…

The’ washing well’ at Asoka Mission Delhi, we can wash between certain hours but only in the bottom part were Ken is, the top part is were the animals drink from.

The picture of Manchester United, we had been given by a neighbour Gary Wilson before we left home, stuck it to the side window of LD, it did cause some interest, wherever we went people new Manchester United .

A rare old lazy day, done nothing much, dived to the bottom of the old well, 70ft to water down old rickety ladder then dived 30ft to bottom, ears cleared slowly bit of blood but made it down, brought up an old bucket and a bit of rope. Took a dog into town its thought to have bronchial pneumonia, got medicine but don’t think he’ll last long. Just been lazing all day cleaned air filter on LD. The Cambodian Monk who runs the place is a really nice bloke 77 but looks 50, reckons to cure any illness hes had within 24 hours. The camp is really good all the animals are tame, squirrels and birds. Sandra’s letter said ‘please come home’!

Syl and LD amongst the Bougainvillea Asoka mission Delhi

Letter from Mam and Nana

Took the little dog to the vet again today gave him an injection, Vet couldn’t understand why the couple wanted to save him he was only a street dog. Disappointed at the post office, another letter from Mam and Nana but nothing from Loraine. Yet mam received the letter on the 14th and I have wrote 6 times so I cant understand it. Hope I get one. Did some shopping Guitar strings and Malaria tablets to take 2 a week. It’s a good place to stay were all sleeping out under a tree under mosquito nets. We’re with people who were on the camp site in Teheran they’ve had a lot of trouble with their Land Rover the Welsman’s and the Hammond’s. Corn flakes tonight cheap and good, snapped strings on my guitar. Tomorrow try the well again I think.

A1/63 SHANTI SADAN
SAFDARJUNG ENCLAVE
NEW DELHI INDIA

Ken at the top of the Quitab Minar tower looking down onto the Mogul ruins Delhi

Asoka mission Delhi

The old man who looks after the gardens in the Mission in Delhi

Spent a lazy day doing Exactly nothing. Wrote a letter to Loraine I hope she gets it, it appears she may not have been getting them. The temperature is cooling off a little now, its been the hottest in 10 years inDelhi last week it was 115 over 40 people have died with the heat. Had a chat with the monk about Buddhism they think the

energy given off by a person goes on after they die and that the only thing that matters is the moment, every action influences others not only yourself. The mission is in a strange area, All around there are the ruins of old temples. This one was built by the Moguls all around the roof tops are Vultures hanging about. On the camp is a funny old Indian man who sweeps the leave and feeds the animals He’s a real character he calls Syl ‘Ma’m Sahib’.

The 3 of us and LD Asoka mission Delhi

Last night we got absolutely stoned on hash, first off we smoked a big chillum pipe then cigarettes and just kept on, we were blotto! completely detached from the surroundings, seemed to be making so much noise and laughing, everything seemed too funny for words.

Bev had game of golf yesterday cost 30 rupee. So many people live on the mission, they came out with Brian on his bus a year ago and they’ve been here ever since.

Wrote home again.

Last night all the hippies kept dropping in to smoke pot because they thought we were regular pot smokers, it was really weird.

Bev, still stoned, contemplating sleep under the mossie nets

Smoked Hash half the day again. Baz and John bought some country wine and made a punch it was very strong. They’ve gone on to Agra and Goa, we will probably meet them in Goa. There are people on the camp who have been here for 4 years  they go into Agra and buy antiques and send them back to England to make some money. A few are studying Buddhism its so peaceful on the mission that you don’t feel like going into the turmoil outside. Received a letter from Lorraine she must love me more than anything, I wonder how it will work out?  Had my fortune told its against my principles but I still did it, 10 rupee he swindled me out of, old man about 90,. But he gave me a piece of paper and I put it in my pocket, on it was my age and Larraine’s name and age. Don’t understand how he did it !!

Bett and Bazil Welsman with Ken at Asoka Mission Delhi

Ken at the Asoka Mission Delhi

Felt really ill today, don’t know why! think I smoked too much hash yesterday. Did nothing much most of the day. Went into the Qatub Minar  the tower is a tremendous height. We walked up to the first balcony, a long way up from there was a fine view of the area. It was the original town of Delhi 600 years ago built by the Moguls the same as the mission. All around the countryside are ruins of temples some huge ones, and on sandy ground between in the long grass there’s cobra, lynx and other animals scurrying along. Its been a good stay at the mission. I wish in a way we were staying longer as some of the others are, some are going up to Kashmir 2 Swiss lads in a VW beetle.

Qutub Minar Delhi

Because its so hot this place is like a refuge its so peaceful and cool.  Even the chipmunks and sparrows are fairly tame. Just like I imagine the new world should be.

We tried to get some gas in Delhi but its useless, you just cannot seem to get anything done, you ask a man in one office and he sends you to somebody else and so on and so on. And they make the silliest excuses one was the metal our cylinder is made of is different to there’s! The temperature now in Agra is really hot its now Tues and I am catching up on my diary, the sweat is running out. It was really good to hear from Larraine. Hope things work out ok.

Asoka Mission Delhi

Taj Mahal Agra

Up at 5 am  away at 7am, said goodbyes to the monks at the Asoka Mission just south of Delhi. Left the camp nearly empty, left the 2 Swiss blokes in the Volkswagen they lost a wheel 3 times, had it welded in Delhi. Then we meet them again in Agra just outside the Taj  Mahal same problem, we tried to sell it for 1500 rupee but there was to much import duty to be paid. We had a meal in town with them and slept near the Taj. They stayed at a tourist home 14 rupee a 3 bed room. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum for his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Its made of  pure white marble and in the centre is the tomb of his wife who died after 12 years of marriage and 14 children he died 5 years later and is buried beside her. The temperature in the sun was unbearable but in the tomb it was really cool, everything was solid white marble.

The 3 of us outside the Taj Mahal Agra

Me at Taj Mahal Agra India 1970

Wrote home to M and L

Slept outside the Taj had mozzie net up but got bitten from head to foot all over. Stopped about half way to Bombay at a Dak bungalow,   Its good to relax Light, Fan, Wash room and toilet 5 rupee, Were beginning to think that’s expensive now because to the Indian it is a lot of money. To us not so much but were getting through it. Sold Air Rifle at the mission for 200 rupee and bought an ice box for 70 we really need it too. Puncture today on barren desert road at exactly midday. It was blazing hot must have been 120. It was a tremendous effort to change the wheel, another 2 rupee to mend it. Miss Larraine very much and wish she was with me now, fed up of travelling and being on my own, I wonder what will happen, The driving is nerve racking nothing moves out of the way.

Taj Mahal Agra India

Wow what a drive 427 miles today stopped 100 miles from Poona at Garage , took wrong road and had to drive down little country roads, trying to get back to main Poona road before sunset. Made it but what a drive, Bypassed Bombay to get to Goa as quick as we can. The heat at midday is terrific the early mornings are best. Cool till about 9am Stopped in a small town to buy stamps and caused a major problem But this is India took us about a hour to buy six stamps. Transport Café at dinner with Taps to wash under, food, cooled tyres down in pond and on again. Glad I wrote home last night tonight I am kaput. Mozzie bites gone after one day. LD ran well today.

Baga Beach Goa India

Trying hard to reach Goa today but the small hose behind the fuel filter burst ran without water till the engine made a din, seems to be boiling a lot mended it with a piece of top hose. Reached Goa but didn’t quite make it to Panaji, Bevs got the shits real bad and Syl nearly fainted with the heat, sat in the shade a while, so I’m driving again, drove into the night, it looks like jungle were driving through dropped down 2000 feet to Goa, drove through Poona and on to Goa straight to Baga beach. The family were there with a cuppa tea going for us. Really great to see them too. Only 500 miles to Madras and then what! Getting through the cash only 150 rupee left and $4.

Up early what a fantastic place like out of a film set, white sands coconut  palm trees, lagoon, nothing like India.  Though it belongs to India now it used to be a Portuguese state.  Crossed the river by ferry to get here at Baga beach,  people shinning up the trees to get the coconuts. Warm seas its really fabulous. The family have been here 2 days. Spent the day swimming surfing floating in the lagoons,  Fishermen in dug out canoes wearing loin cloths. They stand in the tide casting nets too. Its like a tropical island. At night ate steak and drank beer, 25 rupee for the 3 of us, it was really something. The kind of place I’ve always dreamed of going to GOA.

Baga Beach Goa India

No sleep, like sleeping on sandpaper, the fishermen heading out to sea in their dugout canoes. Spent the day lazing and surfing got really sunburnt no idea how. The people here are so different to the Indians they seem really nice. Night time brought rain, really a sight to see tropical storm lighting up the sky and silhouetting the palm trees. And up on the hill the white building of the Portuguese church lit up ghostly against the sky, the palm trees bending under the onslaught of the warm tropical rain and wind.

Ate at Antonio’s, were with the family again from Tehran, Ma cooked a great meal for us all today, they’re great, John got tanked up today with the Indians.

Baga beach. Indian family’s house

Another splendid day, helped the fishermen to pull in the nets, took them ½ a day to lay and haul the net, for just a bucketful of fish. Getting slowly burnt to a frazzle.

Electric storms again at night. But it makes it cooler, the hottest time is just before midday, Its too hot to do anything The Indian people are strange they just sit all along the edges of the water and never venture out. Had a try at Shark fishing  today off the rocks with live bait. Caught nothing so let the fish go.  What a place it is here you could live here a year for next to nothing. We eat a meal, 3 of us, steaks, lobster the lot beer and coke Mango fruit 5/- each. Worked out cost to here, total £68 Diesel and oil. Total changed £131 into foreign currency. Rain again tonight.

The mood in this place is probably the same as its been for hundreds of years. No electricity as reached this far even yet. The night is a dream a starlight sky a half moon lighting up the edges of the palm leaves that move softly in the background. Lights reflecting on the waves as the tips of the waves roll over the crest and light up with phosphorus and flow gently up the beach. I’d like to do this trip again but with just the two of us, or as it may be? I think it would be good with just myself and a girl but can’t feel for sure it would be Larraine. She was so good to me yet it didn’t seem to work between us, I think she was so much better the last 2 years though.

Baga Beach Goa India