Madras

Never seen so much sh**t in all my life! Just to get 2 land rovers aboard a boat, even today we have to get more signatures on more pieces of paper, it really is incredible that a port the size of this is being run by so many dimwitted numbskulls. Originally they said it was sailing at 6am then 12pm now its in the morning, And we could load at 10am then 12pm then 4pm 6pm and now its 10.30pm We’ve been here all day on board the so called “STATE OF MADRAS” apt name I think. Been trying to get loaded but its useless nobody knows what to do. There’s a yank here been waiting for 1 month to get his motorbike “off” the boat. The sailing date is now the 4th, were not banking on it! One man told us to bring it back Thursday another said they wont load Thursday, we’ll break I think !!!!

The aptly named “State of Madras” previously named Jaljawaha scrapped in 1973

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Madras

No sleep just carried straight on into Wednesday. Good day surfing and swimming the water temp is good . Smoked hash and rice toddy in the afternoon and again at night. It was funny someone saw Mouteh coming up the beach and everyone dived into the huts to avoid him, he’s a dam nuisance. All the villagers have been coming round to see if there’s anything they can cadge from us. Took a photo of  the 4 land rovers on the beach before we took them for loading. All set now to make our first big move having to drive. The boat sales at 2pm well see what problems we have now getting it on board. Finally got LD loaded at 4.30am back at beach 5.30 what a day, bur we’ve made it finally.

The 4 Land Rovers on Elliot Beach before they go to port for loading

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Finally left Madras

Letters from M & L

Right up to the last minuet we still had problems! Had to get a receipt for LD then got the carnet du passage discharged and to top it all we had to take that back to the office in Lingchety Street and to get an unloading form or something!!! Tried to sell my watch, no go, tried to change 100 rupee in to Malayan dollars, no go, finally boarded the ‘State Of Madras’ at 2pm eventually sailed at 6pm, Were we glad to see the back of Madras and India, begging, cadging, filth, even on the last minuet on Elliot beach the fishermen were trying to con us out of every last rupee, even wanted the blankets. It was a memorable stay, good and bad, good for the times we had, bad for trying to get things done. The boys at the beach were a bit choked..

 

Bev and Sandra Elliot Beach Madras

Bev and Sandra Elliot Beach Madras

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Boat GMT + 6½ hour

A night of satisfaction, few beers in comfy bar, good meal surprisingly. After thinking we got the Land Rover safely on board just found out they dropped the big hook off the loading crane onto the bonnet, its made a hell of a mess of it too. Bent the bulkhead out and pushed the bonnet right into the wing, and we cant claim a thing from it. First full day at sea today quite calm we seemed to do nothing but eat. But sick of eating curry this and that. The deck class passengers  live in total squaller. They eat and sleep on deck it stinks, they aren’t allowed into the boat at all. First day out about 125 miles, changed £10 into Malaysian dollars. 7 $ to 1 pound.

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Boat

Saw chief officer today about the damage to LD had a few beers with him in the process. He had already got a full report down with the insurance agents, with the extent and measurements of the damage, and one copy left in the port. So we should be able to claim ok. Its unbelievable we thought wed left all our troubles behind in India and now the engines packed up on the boat. So at the moment were just drifting in the Indian ocean 250 miles from Madras en route to Penang Malaysia. Already 4 days behind. The boats rolling a lot now were stopped. Played Bingo tonight but I had no luck Syl and Bev won a couple of dollars. I am missing Larraine I wish she was here with me now.

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Boat

Payed a visit to the bridge, invited up by the chief officer, he gave us an informative look around. He’s a decent bloke only 27 and already has the qualifications to be captain. Its pretty boring all day now not a lot to do except read. I’ve stopped going in for lunch its too much 3 large meals a day. I feel a bit off anyway. Had my cholera jab renewed yesterday, 6 months have gone quickly. I am sharing a cabin with 2 Londonblokes, there’s not enough room for 7 of us in the other cabin. Syl  Bev  Sandra John Baz and Bett. I didn’t want to leave them but I knew if I did it would work and it did.

There’s a terrible stink outside the cabin takes 22 litres of disinfectant a day to clean the decks.

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Boat

Wrote a letter today to Pauline’s parents in the hope they will reply to me in Singapore. Making good time on board now should be near the Nicobar Islands tomorrow. Made copy of the third party damage sheet to be sent to the head office in Bombay. After a couple of Brandies today my stomach trouble seems to have cleared up. I’ve eaten and drank ok today, dinner and tea were quite good also won $13 on the bingo. The boat is not due to land till June 11th. I wonder if I am doing the best thing travelling without Larraine. Only time will tell, It’ll be funny to look back at this page when all has taken its course. My moods have been quite good; still feel like being alone a lot but people are there if I need them, Overall we all get along ok together.

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Boat GMT +½ hour

Went down into engine room ! like a visit into hell! The temp down there must have been 190degrees Fahrenheit above the engines. But in the room about 110,  the handrails too hot to hold. Main shaft leaking they tried to fix it in Madras by a diver going down  but in typical Indian fashion they made it worse. Water pumping in all over the place, half the pumps and things don’t work. The automatic Gyro doesn’t work and many other things,  will feel very lucky if we make Penang. Night time a few beers with Baz and Bev then down to cabin smoking hash. Alan tried it but Brian was really against it. Bev hummed the stripper while the Indian in the cabin was getting undressed it was hilarious.

First sight after 7 days at sea, Junk on the horizon

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Boat

Last day and night on the boat so we made the most of it, we all had a win on the Bingo to round off the night, had a good few beers and a sing song only 1 of the scouts joined in but it was quite good, Then after breaking the glass topped table by accident we made our way noisily down to the cabins woke up the Indian bloke who went up on deck and left us too it. then we started on the Hash and had a real good sing, they banged on the cabin from both side because of the din we were making , but it is the last night so what the hell. 2am before finally going to bed, but didn’t get much sleep the cabin has been a real tip from start to finish, everyone else’s has been cleaned except ours!!

Boats arrival in Penang Malaya

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Penang Malaya

Anchored off Penang had  to complete formalities before going in. First sight this morning was the silhouette of a Junk against the silver sunrise. And now Malaya, had as much trouble getting bits of paper to get LD out of the hold, Port charges $20 and third party insurance $15. It’s fantastic here after India. It’s so clean and orderly and you can buy anything the same as England. Diesel is 1/10 a gallon. We ate the most fantastic mixed grill brought in on a sizzling hot plate. Lots of lovely girls in mini’s. It’s a ridiculous change but a good one. The temp is 73° f and in our room its really cool , Penang is an Island off the mainland of Malaya.

First sight of land after 1 week at sea, Malaya, picture taken through the porthole at sunrise, Junk sailing on the horizon.

First sight of land after 1 week at sea, Malaya, picture taken through the porthole at sunrise, Junk sailing on the horizon.

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Penang Malaya

Had more trouble with LD since we left India than we’ve had the whole of the journey. All the electrics were off this morning bonnet had shorted across the regulator then bonnet stay shorted across the battery so that’sflat now stayed the night on Miami Beach Penang

Had good food in George Town. On the way back to the beach in the afternoon met some hippies went back to their room for a smoke. Real weirdos I was glad to get out, Candles lit and all talking really weird. They had LSD and all different kinds of drugs. I think after seeing them that will do me now, I have had the experience and now finish, there’s something defiantly sick about it.

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Penang Malaya

Woke to the sound of ‘Happy Birthday to you’ Baz and Bett singing to Syl, had bought her a birthday card and a packet of cig’s,  good of them.

Managed to get the bonnet straightened out easily enough, they just beat it out and a quick spray coat of paint, ready in 2 hours, $20. Sent telegram up to the monk Nagasena in Bangkok enquiring price to sell Landover, £1 to send it. Spent the rest of the day looking around. Snake Temple was good, Adders all over the place, but they don’t bite because the incense dopes them. Had photo taken holding one. The houses in the town are really oriental, houses on stilts surrounded by coconut palms and Banana trees. In the town  been eating Chinese food. Prices of watches and  cameras  ridiculously cheap.

Snake Temple Penang ( had prof photo taken holding snake! never arrived) might have known.

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Penang

Half day cleaning up LD it looks well again. Drive around the Island its only 14 miles long, swam in a mountain stream it was great, then right down to the other side of the Islands covered in dense jungle, with flat stretches in between covered in palms and every kind of tropical tree. Becoming quite good at eating with chop sticks too, its easier to eat some foods with them instead of a knife and fork. Visit to the Aquarium the best I have ever seen anywhere, Sharks, Turtles such a variety from the tropical waters around Malaya. There’s a state of emergency here but you would never think so. Last year there was big riots between the Chinese and the Malays.

Meeting up at the beach Penang Malaya

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Penang

Amazing the ease you can get things done after being in India picked up a packing case put all our clothes into it and nailed it up, the next time we see it should be in Fremantle Australia. The cost for a 3 ½ x2x2 was $77 Malay complete. It’ll save us no end of trouble, all we have left is a bag each and a blanket. No telegram from Bangkok today but were prepared to go to Thailand anyway regardless of the result. Surprised everything fitted into the box even my work tools. Been eating mainly Chinese food here its cheap and good, meats and rice getting a dab hand with the chopsticks.

Hashed up last night on piece we got in Kabul it was fantastic really strong stuff.

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Penang

Freight all finished with. Telegram arrived from Bangkok £500 a rough guide for LD. Collected our visas from Embassy $10 each, all set now to go to Thailand. Had good cheap meal, steak $2.60, amazing the ease we got things done here and at such speed. Got Baz’s pipe mended ( Bev broke it while hashed up) a chance in a million we stopped outside the only pipe makers in Penang, and his own pipe end was fitted back to it amazing, all completed and back to base, would have taken a week in India. The sea here is really warm and just under the road we have a fresh water pool for washin.

Reckon to leave about Friday. Weighed ourselves today, Syl 7st 9lbs  Bev 9st 12 lbs  Ken 10st 10lbs, lost approx 2 stone each.

Bev and Ken dressed like proper tourists outside the Temple of the reclining Buddha Penang

Bev and Ken dressed like proper tourists outside the Temple of the reclining Buddha Penang

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Penang

Baz Bett John and Sandra left today for Singapore, They seemed quite choked at leaving us all. Though I don’t know why these last few days relationships seem to be a bit strained for some reason or other. Now that leaves Brian  Alan and Margo. Brian wants to come to Bangkok with us, he and Alan aren’t getting on too well. Luckily us 3 are still getting on well enough. After eating in a cheap but excellent restaurant that was like a night club we spent a pleasant couple of hours watching Carry on Camping in the  air conditioned pictures, then back to base, hashed up again.

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Penang

Wrote letter to L, M

Spent the day on the beach, cooling off every now and again in the water trough under the road, the local bathroom and washing room for the Indians. Managed to cook up some grub on the old primus stove, so we don’t go hungry. Syl and Bev are down to there last £5. Brian sold his landrover for $1800 Malay dollars, now he’s coming up to Thailand with us. Margo and Alan are staying here in Penang. We’ve made a provisional booking for July 20th to Perth Australia. Night time hashed up to the eyeballs, Indian brought some marijuana and rolled it with leaves for ciggie papers. Wow it nearly blew my head off. Last night on beach and now on to Bangkok.

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On the road to Bangkok 1000 miles, 7 hrs + GMT

Left the beach at 9am drove into town posted letters. Eat good breakfast. Ferry across to the mainland  Butterworth. Through customs then on toward Malay Thai border which we reached sooner than expected, and nearly zoomed through without stopping. The road to the boarder was good, through jungle and rubber plantations on both sides of the road, the houses seem to be spread about anywhere nestling just in the edge of the jungle each in its own clearing, houses are wood shacks on stilts. Pineapples growing everywhere. Drove into the night stopping now and then to eat rice and change drivers.

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Bangkok

About 11pm then drove on through the night. All the signs in Thailand are in Thai which makes it very difficult to know where we are going. Route 4 seems to go all the way into Bangkok, took turns driving and sleeping for the 1000 miles it turned out to be from Penang to Bangkok. Arrived here at 6.30 and made our way to the Marble Temple to meet Nagasena, the Indian monk from Delhi. We ended up in a complex discussion about Buddhism with Nagasena and a Swedish bloke who became a monk after taking LSD. Then finally we tried to find a place to sleep. The city is big and beautiful I think there will be plenty to see here. Also still hopeful at the price for LD

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Bangkok

Splendid nights sleep, parked in Chinese hotel car park, fantastic day been driving around Bangkok like millionaires in a taxi. Tried to order Ham and Eggs but it was a failure tried a Chinese soup, no good . Night time Beef and crisps no good. Called round and collected the monk and 2 friends from the Marble Temple and visited a few of the sights, a reclining Buddha, the biggest thing you could imagine covered in gold leaf. in the yard they were selling rubbings off the temple walls, good too. Lots of Rivers and trade done on them like in Venice. Night time Virgin Solders in good cinema, very wealthy city, expensive though. 52 baht = £1. Staying in hotel for 30 baht a room.

Bevs press card bought in Bangkok for a very small amount of money. Valid from April 1971 to December 1975.

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